Jigs & Workshop Aids

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Ben Plewes  |  Mar 26, 2011  |  0 comments
In this video series Ron Fox walks you through some basic jigs for use with the router that can drastically increase your productivity. Ron Starts by outlining the use of each jig before showing you how to make them.
Ben Plewes  |  Mar 25, 2011  |  0 comments
Following on from the first part of this new series Ron uses a set of 'shop made straightedges to make accurate cuts during the construction of a hinge jig.
Ben Plewes  |  Oct 27, 2010  |  0 comments
Ron concludes his video series by demonstrating just how versatile the more advanced version of his housing jig can be.
Ben Plewes  |  Oct 20, 2010  |  0 comments
In this instalment Ron demonstrates a larger, more versatile, version of his basic housing jig.
Ben Plewes  |  Oct 14, 2010  |  0 comments
The next step sees Ron swapping cutters to create a counter-bored slot using his housing jig.
Ben Plewes  |  Oct 07, 2010  |  0 comments
Next, the housing jig is used – made in the previous episode – to progress the hinge cutting jig.
Ben Plewes  |  Sep 28, 2010  |  0 comments
Ron completes the housing jig and finds time to share a quick tip on sourcing good quality glue bottles!
Ben Plewes  |  Sep 22, 2010  |  0 comments
To complete the hinge jig Ron first has to make a simple housing jig that utilizes a standard guide bush that comes supplied with most routers.
Ben Plewes  |  Aug 08, 2009  |  0 comments
After a few hours of using the new Bosch GKF 600 palm router, I began to think of all sorts of new ways this handy sized palm router could be used. Due to its size and weight it’s ideally suited to single handed use, or at least a combination of being held with one hand while being supported with an appropriate jig. It was an opportunity to explore what sorts of jigs would suit this machine and whether more routing could be done on the…

Ben Plewes  |  Aug 07, 2009  |  0 comments
Making wooden boxes is always a rewarding task. There are so many different ways to make boxes and they all offer a chance to let your imagination do what it’s good at without spending huge amounts on materials. From the simple single compartment box with lift of lid to the ornate finely dovetailed jewelry box; all boxes present their own set of challenges and rewards.

One problem I have encountered on numerous box making projects is…

Ron Fox  |  Dec 20, 2008  |  0 comments

I like finger joints. I find their symmetry more attractive than through dovetails for the corners of boxes. Admittedly they don’t have the inherent strength of the locking pins and tails of a dovetail, but the castellations give a very long glue line that, with modern adhesives, is more than strong enough for boxes, chests, and carcases. Finger joints can be cut in various ways, including by hand. With a router, it isn’t too…

Ben Plewes  |  Nov 26, 2008  |  0 comments
  The mitre is one of woodworking's simplest joints. Being perfectly symmetrical it looks easy to produce, but it’s a joint that is hard to get right and make strong without using unsightly nails or brackets as reinforcement. There are many treatments that can be applied to the humble mitre to increase its strength but not many come close to the elegance of using veneer keys.

I will demonstrate here how to make veneer keys…

Ben Plewes  |  Nov 26, 2008  |  0 comments
Mitre trimming jig Click here for Part 1 – Making and using a mitre keying jig Click here to watch a video of the mitre key jig in action   Here is another jig design which is useful for cleaning up the face sides of mitre joints. Again the emphasis is on reducing excess strain while working on the joint. As before this jig design can be scaled up or down according to your needs.

This jig is much simpler than the…

Phil Edwards  |  Nov 20, 2008  |  0 comments
Phil Edwards has put together this short video to demonstrate how to adjust and fine tune blades in hand made planes. This is the first in a series of video's from Phil, so watch this space for the next installment.

Phil Edwards  |  Oct 17, 2008  |  0 comments

I made my try plane from bubinga (also called African rosewood), although any durable hardwood will fi t the bill. I could only source 50mm thick planks, so I had to laminate stock together to get thick enough material. You will need a piece 600 x 75 x 62mm for the centre block, as well as two cheeks measuring 600 x 75 x 8mm. Rip the timber down to size on the bandsaw, then glue up the pieces to form the centre block.


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