Mitre trimming jig
Click here for Part 1 – Making and using a mitre keying jig
Click here to watch a video of the mitre key jig in action
Here is another jig design which is useful for cleaning up the face sides of mitre joints. Again the emphasis is on reducing excess strain while working on the joint. As before this jig design can be scaled up or down according to your needs.
I like finger joints. I find their symmetry more attractive than through dovetails for the corners of boxes. Admittedly they don’t have the inherent strength of the locking pins and tails of a dovetail, but the castellations give a very long glue line that, with modern adhesives, is more than strong enough for boxes, chests, and carcases. Finger joints can be cut in various ways, including by hand. With a router, it isn’t too…
The sash cramp has proved itself to be an invaluable workshop aid, but as Michael Wakefield shows, being forewarned is forearmed. Here he offers solutions to five common problems that can arise during use
Having lost faith in router tables, could the sauter lift and Suhner motor combination be the perfect and complete UK solution John Lloyd has been searching for?
I first became aware of pocket-hole techniques after watching Norm Abram use a very expensive system to cut them. Norm’s system was clearly way out of my league, a huge piece of standing machinery with integrated router, drill and clamp, it was way more suited to a production environment than my humble shed but the technique looked very simple.
If your workshop is anything like mine, the addition of this surface thicknessing jig will be a welcome one. It does exactly what it says on the tin, insofar as it allows you to surface a wide board using a thicknesser. The problem I encountered in my basement sized workshop was that I had enough room for a small six inch surface planer (on wheels) and a ‘portable’ thicknesser (also on a wheeled cabinet). The thicknesser can plane timber…
